How To Work with Phyllo Dough–and Stay Sane at the Same Time


Every month, Lori Yates from Foxes Love Lemons takes a lesson she learned in culinary school, while working with some of the country’s best chefs, and takes it into the home kitchen, where her tips will help make you a faster, better, and more confident cook. Welcome to her column, Home Chef

The first time I worked with phyllo dough, I ended up crying.

Mind you, I’m not a crier. I don’t cry at weddings, sad movies or sappy commercials featuring cute animals. But something about that phyllo dough reduced me to a blubbering mess. Perhaps it was the fact that I was trying to make baklava in my tiny kitchen on a sweltering September day (the hot oven making it even more sweltering). Or perhaps it was simply that I really had no idea how to handle and work with the phyllo. Either way, I swore it was the last time I would ever use this ingredient.

Then I decided to go to culinary school, and my very first class was Pastries 1. When a Certified Master Pastry Chef assigned me to make a strudel in my second week of class, I knew I had to do it, and without tears.

More: Blue Apron’s Five-Ingredient Apple Turnovers

Luckily, the chef walked me through how to work with phyllo and not totally lose my mind.

First of all, always thaw phyllo dough in the refrigerator overnight. Do not try to thaw it at room temperature – it’ll become a sticky mess. Prep your mise en place (ingredients and equipment) before removing the phyllo from the fridge. If you need to cook a fruit filling, have it cooked and cooled. Melt your butter. Get your pastry brush ready. Have your baking pan and a sharp knife next to you. Have every single thing within reach before you even think of unwrapping the phyllo. Ready to go?

Now, unwrap your phyllo and place it on a clean work surface (I like to use a piece of parchment paper). Cover it completely with a clean, dry dish towel. Cover that towel with a moist (not wet) clean kitchen towel. As you work through your recipe, make sure you take out only the sheets you need, and then cover the remaining phyllo back up with the towels. This setup will protect the phyllo from the dry air – the enemy of phyllo and what causes it to crack and become unmanageable.

None of this was too hard, right? After this, you’re actually all set to proceed with whatever recipe you are preparing. Phyllo dough is super versatile and can be used in a variety of sweet and savory preparations. Here, I’ve made a basic pear strudel and finished it with a sweet glaze. Believe it or not, I made this strudel on a Sunday morning before my husband was even awake.

And when he came downstairs, I was smiling at my success….NOT crying.

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